At a glance
Symptoms
- • Washer takes an unusually long time to drain
- • Clothes are soaking wet at the end of the spin cycle
- • Washer displays OE, 5E, or Nd error codes
- • Smelly, musty, or mildew odors emanating from the drum
- • Unusual rattling, clicking, or grinding noises during the drain cycle
- • Washer completely stops mid-cycle full of water
Common causes
- • Prevents catastrophic drain pump motor failure (saving you a $250-$400 professional repair)
- • Stops mildew and mold growth caused by sitting, stagnant water in the pump housing
- • Ensures the washer can reach maximum spin speeds (washers will abort high-speed spins if the water level pressure switch detects standing water)
- • Removes abrasive obstructions like beach sand (very common in Southern California), pet hair, and forgotten pocket items
- • Clears hard water calcium buildup from the impeller blades, ensuring efficient water flow
Safety First — Read Before You Start
- •Always unplug the washer from the wall outlet before opening any access panels to prevent electric shock.
- •If you recently ran a hot water or sanitize cycle, wait at least 1 to 2 hours before opening the filter. The residual water inside can be scalding hot.
- •Be prepared for 1 to 2 cups of residual water to spill out. If the washer is full of water and won't drain at all, you may have gallons of water waiting behind that cap.
Tools & supplies you'll need
- Shallow baking dish or pie pan
- Large old bath towels
- Needle-nose pliers (for stubborn debris)
- Old toothbrush
- Flashlight
- White vinegar (optional, for hard water scale)
Step-by-step instructions
Prep the Area and Locate the Access Door
Start by unplugging the washing machine. Locate the small drain pump access door, which is almost always found on the bottom front corner of front-load washers (usually the right or left side). Lay down a thick, absorbent bath towel directly under the door. Even if you drain the system properly, some water will inevitably spill when you unscrew the main filter cap. Having a towel ready prevents water from seeping under the washer or damaging adjacent cabinetry, which is especially important if your washer is installed on a second floor or in a finished closet.
Tip: If your washer is installed in a tight laundry closet or drip pan, you might need to use a flat baking sheet instead of a bowl to catch the water.
Drain the Residual Water
Open the access door. Inside, you will typically see a large circular knob (the filter) and a small rubber hose with a plug in the end. Do NOT unscrew the large knob yet! First, pull the small rubber hose out, hold it over your shallow pie pan or dish, and remove the plug. Let the water drain out completely. If the pan fills up, replace the plug, empty the pan in the sink, and repeat the process until no more water flows from the hose. This step is critical; skipping it will result in all the water rushing out at once when you open the main filter.
âš Warning: If the water doesn't stop flowing and you've emptied several gallons, your main tub is still full. Stop, replace the plug, and bail the water out of the main drum first.
Unscrew and Remove the Filter Cap
Once the auxiliary hose has stopped draining, replace its plug and clip it back into place. Now, firmly grasp the large circular filter knob and turn it counterclockwise. It may be stiff, especially if it hasn't been cleaned in a while or if you live in an area with hard water (like Los Angeles or Orange County, where water hardness can exceed 300 ppm). Turn it slowly. As you break the seal, a little more water will likely trickle out onto your towel. Continue unscrewing until the filter pulls completely out of the housing.
Tip: If the cap is completely stuck, do not force it with a wrench, or you risk cracking the plastic pump housing. Try spraying a little white vinegar around the threads to dissolve calcium deposits.
Clean the Filter and Inspect the Housing
Take the filter over to your sink. Pull off any lint, hair, coins, or bobby pins. Use an old toothbrush and warm soapy water to scrub away any slimy residue or hard water scale from the plastic mesh. Next, take your flashlight and shine it into the dark hole on the washer where the filter came from. You will see the small plastic blades of the drain pump impeller in the back. Reach in with your fingers or needle-nose pliers and pull out any debris wrapped around those blades. Give the impeller a gentle spin with your finger; it should turn with a slight, magnetic, choppy resistance.
âš Warning: Be careful when reaching into the housing. Broken glass, sharp screws, or rusted bobby pins are frequently found hiding in this cavity.
Reinstall the Filter and Test for Leaks
Slide the clean filter back into the housing, making sure it goes in straight. Turn the knob clockwise until it is completely hand-tight and stops turning. Cross-threading is your biggest enemy here; if it feels like it's going in crooked, back it out and try again. Once tight, close the access door, plug the washer back in, and run a quick 'Rinse & Spin' cycle. Watch the bottom of the washer closely for the first few minutes to ensure no water is dripping from the access door.
Tip: Leaving the filter even slightly loose will result in a puddle on your floor during the next wash cycle. Make sure it's snug, but don't use tools to over-tighten it.
Brand-specific notes
Some brands have known design quirks worth knowing about before you start.
LG
LG front-loaders almost always feature a small fold-down door on the bottom left. The plug on their auxiliary drain hose can be notoriously tight; use a gentle twisting and pulling motion to remove it rather than yanking, which can tear the hose.
Samsung
On Samsung VRT and newer front-load models, the filter is usually behind a push-to-release flap on the bottom right. Samsung washers are very sensitive to drain times; a partially clogged filter will frequently trigger a '5E' or 'Nd' error code long before the pump actually fails.
Whirlpool / Maytag
Some older Whirlpool Duet and Maytag Maxima models frustratingly hid the pump filter behind the entire lower front kick panel. You may need to remove three Torx (T-20) or 1/4-inch hex screws along the bottom edge to take off the panel and access the pump.
Bosch
Bosch compact 24-inch Euro models (very popular in San Francisco and LA condos) have a circular cover on the bottom right. The filter cap is large, but the clearance for a drain pan is extremely low. You will absolutely need a flat baking sheet and plenty of towels for these units.
GE
GE front loaders typically have a swing door on the bottom right. We've noticed GE's filter housing tends to hold a bit more residual water than other brands, so double up on the towels before you unscrew the main cap.
What our techs see most often
Here in coastal spots like Santa Monica or Huntington Beach, we pull out pounds of beach sand and surfboard wax from these filters every summer. Taking ten minutes to clear this filter yourself saves you a $185 service call for what is essentially just a clogged lint trap.
When to call a professional
- → The filter cap is completely seized and won't turn (forcing it will break the pump housing, requiring a full replacement).
- → You've thoroughly cleaned the filter and impeller, but the washer still won't drain or makes a loud humming noise (likely a dead pump motor).
- → The small rubber auxiliary drain hose is cracked, brittle, or leaking water.
- → You find damaged or broken plastic impeller blades inside the pump housing.
- → The washer is stacked in a tight closet and you cannot safely access the bottom front panel without moving the heavy units.
Related Washer Troubleshooting
These troubleshooting guides cover problems this task can help solve.
How to Decode Washing Machine Error Codes (LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, GE)
Washing Machine Shaking and Vibrating: Causes and Fixes
Washing Machine Leaking from Bottom: Find and Fix the Source
Washing Machine Not Spinning: How to Fix It
Washing Machine Smells Bad: How to Eliminate Mold and Mildew
Frequently asked questions
How often should I clean my washer drain pump filter?
For a typical household, you should clean the filter every 2 to 3 months. However, if you have pets that shed heavily, wash heavily soiled work clothes, or live near the beach where sand is an issue, you should check it once a month.
I can't get the filter cap to turn. What do I do?
Don't force it with pliers! Hard water scale (extremely common in Southern California) can cement the plastic threads together. Try soaking a rag in warm white vinegar and holding it against the seam to dissolve the calcium. If it still won't budge, call a pro. Breaking the housing means replacing the entire pump assembly, which costs $150 to $300 installed.
Water keeps coming out when I open the little hose. Is this normal?
It is normal for 1 to 2 cups of residual water to drain out. However, if it drains more than half a gallon and keeps coming, your main tub is still full of water. This usually means your main drain pipe is completely clogged, or your water inlet valve is slowly leaking water into the tub while the machine is off.
Why does my washer smell like rotten eggs even after I cleaned the filter?
The filter is only part of the odor equation. Smells often stem from mildew and mold growing in the folds of the rubber door boot gasket. Wipe down the gasket thoroughly and run a tub clean cycle with an Affresh tablet or liquid bleach. Replacing a severely moldy door gasket is a $250-$400 job, so prevention is key.
Related Repair Guides
Washing Machine Won't Drain: Step-by-Step Fix
A washer that fills but never empties is the most fixable major washer fault we see — about 70% of these calls are resolved by clearing a clogged pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or a coin lodged in the impeller. Most homeowners can complete this repair in under an hour with basic tools.
Washing Machine Smells Bad: How to Eliminate Mold and Mildew
A musty, swampy smell coming from your washing machine usually means mold, mildew, or a buildup of detergent biofilm. This guide walks you through deep-cleaning the gasket, clearing the drain pump filter, and flushing the tub to eliminate odors for good.
Washing Machine Not Spinning: How to Fix It
A washer that fills and agitates but won't spin is one of the most frequent calls our dispatch handles. In most cases the cause is an unbalanced load, a failed lid switch or door lock, a broken drive belt, or a worn motor coupling — and roughly two out of three of those you can fix yourself in under an hour.