How to Level a Washing Machine to Stop Vibration

If your washing machine is brand new or recently moved from another house, the very first step is ensuring the shipping bolts have been removed. These are 4 or 5 large bolts located on the rear panel of front-load washers that lock the suspension in place for transit. If you run the machine with these installed, it will bounce violently and can literally tear itself apart. Use a wrench to back these bolts out completely, pull out the attached plastic sleeves, and plug the holes with the caps provided by the manufacturer. Keep the bolts in a safe place in case you move again.

Before adjusting the machine, check the floor underneath. In many older California homes—especially raised-foundation bungalows in Los Angeles or hillside properties—the subfloor itself may be bouncy or sagging. Place your bubble level directly on the floor where the washer sits. If the floor has significant give or rot, leveling the machine won't solve the vibration. For weak floors, you may need to cut a piece of 3/4-inch thick plywood to fit under both the washer and dryer. Screw the plywood directly into the floor joists to create a rock-solid base before proceeding.

Place your 24-inch bubble level across the top front edge of the washing machine. Note which side is lower. Have a helper gently tilt the washer backward to take the weight off the front legs, or carefully use a pry bar and a wooden block to prop it up. Using your adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers, loosen the locknut on the leg that needs adjusting. Turn the leg clockwise (screwing it in) to lower that corner, or counter-clockwise (unscrewing it out) to raise it. Lower the machine back down and check the level again. Repeat until the bubble is perfectly centered.

Move your bubble level so it sits along the side edge of the washer, pointing from the front to the back. Check both the left and right sides. If you are working on a front-load washer, you will need to adjust the rear legs using the same method as the front legs. However, if you have an older top-load washer (like many classic Whirlpool or Maytag models), it likely features self-adjusting rear legs. To set self-adjusting legs, simply tilt the entire machine forward about 3 to 4 inches until the rear legs lift off the floor, then gently set it back down. The internal springs will automatically snap the rear legs to the correct height.

This is the most frequently skipped step, and failing to do it means your washer will be out of level again within a month. Once the machine is perfectly level both side-to-side and front-to-back, you must lock the legs in place. Take your adjustable wrench and turn the locknut on each leg upwards until it is jammed tightly against the bottom base frame of the washer. The nut prevents the threaded leg from slowly vibrating loose and unscrewing during high-speed spin cycles.

With the machine flat on the floor and all locknuts tightened, place your hands on the top right front corner and the top left rear corner. Push and pull firmly to see if there is any play or rocking. Switch your hands to the opposite diagonal corners (top left front, top right rear) and repeat. The machine should feel like it is glued to the floor. If there is even a millimeter of rocking, one of the legs is slightly too short. Identify the short leg, loosen its locknut, extend it just a hair until it meets the floor firmly, and re-tighten.

Many modern digital washing machines have a calibration mode that allows the internal computer to measure the exact weight of the empty drum to better detect out-of-balance loads. Check your owner's manual to see if your model has a calibration sequence (usually involving holding a combination of buttons). Once calibrated, throw in three or four heavy bath towels, get them wet on a rinse cycle, and run a high-speed spin. Watch the machine carefully. It should hum smoothly without walking, banging, or visibly shaking the outer cabinet.